Days anaerobic climb eight thousand meters Shishapangma the cloud

20 years ago, including myself, no one thought I would fall in love with mountain climbing, and even to climb the highest mountain in the world. Want to know,SingaporeThe highest point above sea level to 164 meters. But this time, I'm in alpine climbing, elevation 8012 meters of the F Natsu Bangma peak! We have many times and crazy scold this place "the place". Think of these, my teammates and Ed smile into each other's eyes......

Overlooking the Shishapangma top

At University, I inBritainThe first contact that really climb. Holding the rope, I have no fear in mind, but there is a kind of feeling, that feeling seems to be telling me, higher peak waiting for me. In the Rhine Holt Messner and Peter Harbel successfully anaerobic climbingMount QomolangmaInspired by the story, I have a dream that one day, I can in the same way to challenge K2 (K2 peak, 8611 meters above sea level).

However, at an altitude of 8000 meters above the thin air, almost no life can survive, is climbing world famous "dead zone", without oxygen successful summit and live down is not easy. We can climb the highest difficulty, anaerobic boarded the summit was highest in K2?

"We can!" I told myself. Of course, this requires careful planning and step-by-step training, and starting from a low of 8000 meters mountain. Shishapangma is such a proper mountain.

It needs to depend on the yak pack

In the Xixiabangma peak, Ed and I first alpine climbing (i.e. anaerobic climbing) to the "death zone".

����Continue to go beyond the

Ed and I feel already climb for a long time, but we have a look at 7200 meters down the tent, it still is so near. After 5 minutes' rest, we went on to climb. With no oxygen cylinders, relying on our own strength to climb to the height of the absolute need plenty of energy. And from now on, we must constantly remind ourselves, to constantly surpassing. The mountains are covered by ice and snow condition is complex and changeable, is like a piece of roast out of the black forest cake, you don't know what hard place where soft. We have to rotate groping forward using ski pole, ice and ice hammer. An hour later, the mountain slope steeper, full 80 degree. The climbers like climbing vertical ice cliffs. However, even a small mistake can lead to disaster. For example, ice axe slipped off, you might fall off a cliff, buried in the snow. If you are climbing the rope climb, that will compromise your teammates fell.

Do the preparation in the camp

Now, although the Ed and I took snow scale and cone of cold, but in loose snow but difficult to put snow anchor, even placed no significance. Sometimes, we have to move forward on all fours, which cost us a lot of strength. There are a few snow too soft, we had to use the pickaxe pick handle rather than spike part, always be anxious and fearful, I do not know can not lock. We climbed up the rope and climbed the 100 meters, until the ridge slope ease some. I follow the ridges on both sides look down, my mind starts flashing ominous picture: now if the snow all over the sky, big winds, we will undoubtedly be in despair. I was aware of this possibility, a few weeks ago we just encountered a similar situation, before also read some climbers of the tragedy, and I and Ed, Mok in 1997 to climb Cho oyu (Cho Oyu) had been in danger, but survived. I try to take these with one's hair standing on end situation behind, watching the air with ominous clouds, with awe and humility, with great care, lurch.

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